La Alpujarra-Spain’s Secret Mountain Escape

The Canals through Pampaneira

We stumbled upon La Alpujarra of Southern Spain while planning a one month trip around the coast.  We saw the high altitude villages of these region when searching for accommodations that were outside of Granada.  With children, we prioritize staying outside of the city and doing day trips in to visit one or two major sites, and this region looked perfect for our 5 day stay in this part of Spain.

The white washed villages of La Alpujarra are truly one of Spain’s best kept secrets.  There’s a deep, layered story there. After the fall of Granada in the 15th century, the Moors who refused to convert to Christianity fled into these mountains. Their influence is still everywhere: in the architecture, in the terraced farming systems, even in the names of the towns.

Views of Capileira

First, the landscape is absolutely breathtaking. Imagine deep green valleys, rugged mountain paths, snow — and scattered across it all, tiny villages painted in white, with flat roofs and crooked chimneys that look like something out of a fairytale.

Villages like Pampaneira, Bubión, and Capileira are tucked into the Poqueira Gorge and are perfect for exploring on foot. You’ll find charming craft shops, stone-paved streets, and fountains spilling with cool mountain water. Locals still make woven rugs, cheeses, and some of the best cured ham (jamón serrano) you’ll ever taste — especially in Trevélez, one of the highest villages in Spain.

Winding Streets of Capileira

This region is a dream for hikers. Whether you’re looking to explore the Sierra Navada National Park or to hike village to village, the trails are extensive. 

Even if you’re not into hiking, La Alpujarra is perfect for slow travels.

If you crave authenticity, silence, and stunning scenery, La Alpujarra is perfect.

Our Authentic Airbnb in Capileira

The Villages:

Capileira
 Known as the prettiest of the Poqueira Gorge villages, Capileira is a great base for hiking and has stunning views of the Sierra Nevada. You’ll find cozy casas rurales, small guesthouses, and boutique hotels with lots of charm.

Pampaneira
 A bit lower down the gorge, Pampaneira is lively (though still very quiet), with local artisan shops, great cafés, and easy access to nearby villages.

Trevélez
 If you’re up for mountain vibes and want to sample some of Spain’s best jamón, this is your spot. It’s higher and quieter, ideal if you want to really disconnect. 

Hiking to a small summit in Sierra Nevada National Park

Favorite Activities with Kids

  • Hikes in Sierra Nevada National Park 
  • Hikes from Capileria where we stayed, to a forgotten village at the end of the gorge
  • Slow walks/playground time around the villages.
  • Stopping by the bakeries and smoothie shops
  • Tried chocolate from a local shop
  • Family visits to the local Aritistan Shops to pick a special souvenir.
  • Day trip to Alhambra in Granada 
  • Pampaneira and Bubión are known for handwoven textiles — they’re affordable and the kids enjoyed picking one to bring home.  
Authentic Textile Shop in Capileira
  • For serious hikers, the path up to Mulhacén, the highest peak in mainland Spain, starts near Capileira.

Food That’s Easy to Try with Kids:

  • Jamón de Trevélez 
  • Plato Alpujarreño – a hearty plate of fried potatoes, sausage, peppers, and egg.
Traditional Alpujarran Food and Local Wine