The Dolomites had been on our list for years. The stunning photos of the majestic Italian Alpine mountains composed of the mineral dolomite, a type of limestone, that turn pink at sunset and sunrise. Their jagged peaks and old world alpine valleys with charming family owned mountainside Refugio. They looked so appealing, but we begged the question of, would this be a kid friendly two weeks?
And let me tell you, it was. We enjoyed eleven full days filled with stunning hikes to family own restaurants with playgrounds and wandering cattle. We spent time staying in a farm Air BnB where the kids had freedom to interact with the resident animals (including our favorite, newborn baby bunnies!) We were able to discover hidden gems and “beyond the usual trail” hikes and towns. All while relaxing and exploring with our happy, active children.
We focused our stay within an hour and a half from two distinct and popular tourist villages.
Our first stay was in Ritten, Italy. We spent five nights and we felt like it was the right amount of time to complete numerous hikes, enjoy small villages, and explore the city of Bolzano. It’s closest tourist village was Ortisei.
Quickly becoming overwhelmed with cable car prices, packages, and choices, we decided to hike two days in National and Nature Parks instead. It was hands down the best decision we could have made. Without lines, tourists, and crowds, we were able to feel the true spirit of what makes the Dolomites so special.
We opted for a final hike that was cable car assisted in order to explore World War I forts and trenches on top of the ridgelines. We later found this allowed us to skip the very popular and touristy World War I site that was closer to our second stay on the eastern side of the Dolomites.
Our second stay was at an Air BnB in the sleepy village of Zoppe di Cadore high above the valley and in the shadow of the towering Monte Pelmo. It is charming and old world and we were the only Americans in the village. The closest tourist town is Cortina d’ampezzo. However, it was located an hour and 30 minutes from the village.
We spent parts of our days in the Val di Zoldo which is the land of the ice cream makers! The people of the Cadore area have been making ice cream for generations since the 19th century.
We also did two long hikes. One that was accessed by a very affordable cable car (think mom and pop ski resort in the summer) and the other was in National Park Land. It was to the top of Monte Crot and had breathtaking views of Monte Pelmo.
The rest of our time was filled with visits to local playgrounds, short hikes, time in Zoppe di Cadore, and home cooked meals with ingredients from the local market.
Most Used Items on Our Hikes:
Trekking poles. The Dolomites have many rocky trails. These made it easier on the knees and even went to and from Europe in our carry-on luggage. https://amzn.to/3DRaJtG
Kid’s Merell high top hiking boots. Again, rocky trails can be tough on growing feet. Our kids prefer the high top version. https://amzn.to/4c5QUvf
SPF bucket hats. Much of the Dolomites are in open alpine valleys or above the treeline. Each of us had one of these in our packs. https://amzn.to/4l1g2au
Packable small backpacks for kids. https://amzn.to/3FJkPNR
Small light weight Silicone Water bottles. Easy to Pack https://amzn.to/41Nnf6K
Packable windbreaker perfect for small backpacks. Adults: https://amzn.to/3Y4BvW9 Kids: https://amzn.to/4iFmqCL
Favorite Unique Discoveries
Aquamarina Brixen, Italy. A wellness and sports complex known for its large indoor, outdoor pool, waterslides, and children’s playground. There is ample parking and a beautiful changing room. The perfect way to enjoy fun as a local. $25 for a family pass: http://www.aquarena.com
Tuff Alm Beautiful hiking in a state park to no need for cable car. Short and sweet, ends at a children’s playground and refugio. Free
Otzi the Iceman 5,300 year old natural human mummy Bolzano, Italy. Otzi and his mummified belongs are fascinating. Children and adults can view Otzi on a moving step to view into the small window of his temperature controlled chamber. Located in the South Tyrol Museum of Archeology. $26 for a Family Ticket
Passo-Jouf dal Vaiolon stunning hike in Kaiserstein near the Carezza ski resort. Option to park and hike from the road, but cable cars can be utilized for this hiking area. The hike goes above the tree line to a pass in the crags of the Dolomites. Strenuous ~5 miles RT and 2,500 feet of gain. Free
Val di Zoldo. Land of the Ice cream makers. Here you find multi generation gelaterias in the valley. Bonus, some have playgrounds near by with tables for BYOPP (Bring your own ping pong-kits sold at local grocery stores!)
Monte Crot Hike to top with views of Pelmo. Hard ~3.5 miles RT and 1,300 feet of gain. Free
Spiz Zuel. Cable car up Val di Zoldo Ski Area on the Pecol side. Hike for views of Monte Civetta. Moderate ~3 miles RT and 1,000 feet of gain. Cable Car both ways Adults: $14 Junior: $10 Kids 8 and under: Free *Note: the staff kindly charged us for two adults and gave our 10 year old an under 9 pass.
For a free and more detailed guide to lesser known gems in the Dolomites, DM me on Instagram @beyondtheusualtrail or contact me at BeyondTheUsualTrail@gmail.com
Contact: Meghan Haigh Email: BeyondTheUsualTrail@gmail.com Instgram: BeyondTheUsualTrail
Beyond The Usual Trail 